On deck, a dozen wet-suited tourists jostle to get a look, but the grandstand view is 2 m underwater, from a metal cage lowered at Takapu’s stern.
Its mouth gapes, flashing rows of ripsaw teeth, then snaps shut like a gin trap round the body of a dead barracuda serving as bait. Shark! Shark! A big mako!” There is a sudden scramble aboard Vic Foster’s boat Takapu as, out of blue water, the unmistakeable shape appears: a steel-grey, cone-nosed torpedo. And when stormy weather or heavy seas make marine adventures unappealing, mountain biking, horse trekking, hunting, skiing and tramping are among the recreational options available ashore. Although sperm whales were the original tourist draw card, Kaikoura now offers encounters with dolphins, sharks, albatrosses, seals and more. The delicacy commands a good price-written on the backs of the pair Michelle Reihana is holding. “Kaikoura” means “a meal of crayfish,” something Nin’s Bin has been offering travellers of the South Island’s east coast for 25 years. Its high-pitched silver roof is visible on the left. A cottage associated with the original whaling station was later enlarged to form a spacious residence, and has been preserved as the town’s oldest dwelling, Fyffe House.
The first Pakeha settlers to enjoy this vista were whalers, who established themselves here, at Avoca Point, on the northern coast, in 1842. Written by Derek Grzelewski Photographed by Arno GasteigerĬlimbing to over 2500 m, the Seaward Kaikoura Range provides a majestic backdrop to the Kaikoura Peninsula and its rocky coastline.
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